1920 Dyer Harp Guitar - Model 7 Serial # 910
Time to get the top fitted.
The end pin shown in the photo is the
original 88 year old ebony end pin. Even
chunks of this were missing and were
restored with ebony dust and gap filling
cyanoacrylate. To get it cleaned up and
get the original black color back, I used
boiled linseed oil.
There was a bit of finger board
carnage experienced during
removal of the old square frets.
The brittle ebony chipped out along
the fret slots as frets were pulled.
Pieces were glued back in place
when possible.
Other existing finger board damage
was repaired including the 12th fret
holes used for neck steaming.
That's a bit of progress. The finger board
needs a little more touch up, a new three
layer heel cap, and the neck is done.
Preparation for sanding and sealing.
The top Is now glued on and routed
flush with the sides. The purfling and
binding channels can be added next.
Some last minute touch ups before
the top goes on.
Top purfling and binding channels are
just about done. I need to do a dry fit
and adjust the depth if needed.
Time to fit the top binding and purling.
One in and two being fitted. The fit is
a little tricky up at the peg head.
As soon as this is done the neck will
be dry fitted to do a sanity check on
alignment with the bridge. If all is well
there, the body will be sanded,
stained, and finished before final
mounting of the neck.
Back view with top binding installed.
Did some steaming in the waist area and
headed down the lower left side.
Back and sides final
finishing is underway
using Freedom
polishing.
It's harder than it looks.
It's a good thing there is no audio in
this section.
In the bottom two photos all of the
purfling is glued in place and 80%
leveled. The neck and bridge are put in
place temporarily for affect.
Sam Swank stops by for an
evening consultation to set
the neck.
Although there are a number of issues to resolve, it's time for a test drive. This is the first time Sam
has held a harp guitar and he gives it a go. See video below.
The red mahogany stain
and shellac work very
well together.
With the full size holes
drilled, the bridge can
be fastened in place
with hollow bolts
through the bridge pin
holes. The hollow bolts
allow for stringing up
the instrument at this
point.
The pilot holes are now
drilled out to full size.
Final alignment checks
are made before
committing to gluing it
down.
The bridge alignment
looks good, so I can drill
out the remaining holes
to full size. The two
pilot holes are still
needed so I drill only
half way in with the
larger drill on those
holes.
Surfaces are carefully
hand sanded to 1500
grit before hand
rubbing three passes
using two different
polishing compounds.
This is working much
better now.
This left side just wasn't
right, so back down to
wood for a do over.
With the score still the
same, we move to further
action in the fourth
quarter...
With a bit of glue, clamps,
and 12 hours later, it is all
strung up.
Normally I would say
"Time to spank the baby",
but in this case I think we
will just nudge the old
girl.
Is it just me or does the
harp arm below look like
a big smile to you.
The patient owner (Phil) begins to explore his newly revived instrument.